There is something about Nigerian fabrics that changes when you begin to look at them through a stylist’s eyes. For years, I have looked at fabrics like Aso Oke and Akwete and understood them primarily through the occasions they belonged to…the weddings, naming ceremonies, big celebrations and moments where dressing up is almost like a language of its own.
But lately, I have been looking at them differently. I find myself asking a different question: What happens when we stop seeing African fabrics simply as traditional attire and start seeing them as fashion? That question has taken me deeper into the world of African textiles, and two fabrics in particular keep finding their way into my styling conversations: Aso Oke and Akwete. Both are deeply rooted in Nigerian textile traditions; they have unmistakable visual identities and can transform an outfit. But one thing stands out: they do not tell the same story, and perhaps that is what makes the comparison super duper interesting.
Aso-Oke Knows How To Make An Entrance
Aso-Oke has a presence even before you begin styling it, there is something about its texture, structure and richness that demands attention. It does not quietly enter a room, it arrives.
Traditionally associated with Yoruba cultural dressing and traditional occasions, the Nigerian Fabric, Aso-Oke, has long carried a sense of ceremony and prestige. Yet what fascinates me most about it today is how easily that heritage can be translated into contemporary fashion.
Aso Oke can be regal without looking dated, it can be dramatic without becoming excessive, and when it is styled thoughtfully, it can feel every bit as relevant on a modern fashion editorial as it does at a traditional celebration. I love the idea of taking that inherent grandeur and playing with it. A structured Aso Oke corset with a clean skirt. A dramatic jacket over a simple look. Or a modern silhouette that lets the fabric shine. Even the way the fabric is accessorised can completely change its personality.
The secret, for me, is knowing when to let the fabric speak and when to stop talking. Because sometimes, the most sophisticated thing you can do with a statement fabric is give it space.
And if you’re looking for beautiful Aso Oke pieces, there are a few brands I’d recommend checking out. The Potters Design and Ayabawoman both offer beautifully tailored and customizable pieces, making them worth a look if you want an Aso Oke outfit that feels special and personal to you.
And Then There Is Akwete…
If Asoeke is the woman who walks into the room knowing exactly who she is, Akwete is the woman you find yourself looking at twice. There is something almost intimate about handwoven fabric; you notice the details, the texture, the irregularities and the craftsmanship. The fact that somebody’s hands, time and skill are embedded into the fabric itself is just wow.
Akwete is a Nigerian fabric traditionally associated with the Igbo people of southeastern Nigeria, and it carries that sense of artistry which makes it even more appealing. The fabric is beautiful not only for its designs but also because each piece has a unique look. In fashion, Akwete is very interesting because it can make even a simple outfit look special and eye-catching.
Rather than overwhelming the wearer, Akwete can become a conversation between the fabric, the silhouette and the woman wearing it.It can become a contemporary two-piece, a statement jacket, or a beautifully cut dress. It can even blend traditional textiles with modern tailoring. This is where African fashion becomes particularly interesting to me, because heritage does not have to remain frozen in time.
If you’re looking for a beautiful Akwete outfit, Hertunba is definitely one of the brands I would recommend checking out. They have a lovely variety of designs, from traditional-inspired pieces to more modern styles, which makes it easy to find something that fits your personal style. Their range is one of the reasons customers keep coming back, so if you’re shopping for Akwete, I’d say give them a try.
Buy yourself a beautiful Akwete dress here
So… Asooke or Akwete?
Honestly? Choosing between these two Nigerian fabrics is very hard, and I don’t think one is better than the other. Fashion has made us used to comparing everything. Which colour is better? What shape looks nicer? Which trend should we follow? And which fabric looks more expensive? And there is nothing wrong with asking these questions.
But maybe a better question here is: What do you want your outfit to say? If you want to stand out, the rich and structured look of Aso Oke might be what you need. If you are for fine details and something a bit different, Akwete might just be your best pick.
For big events and a strong look, one may feel right for you. For texture, craft, and unique woven patterns, the other may feel perfect. And that is the beauty of personal style. The fabric does not decide who you are. You decide what it becomes.
One thing I have become increasingly passionate about in my styling journey is challenging the idea that African fabrics must always be styled in one particular way. Somewhere along the line, we created a very narrow idea of what African fashion is supposed to look like. We started associating African/Nigerian fabrics with particular silhouettes, elaborate headpieces, statement jewellery and, more often than not, special occasions.
But why? Why can’t Aso Oke become a sharply tailored blazer? And why can’t Akwete be paired with something completely unexpected? Why can’t traditional fabrics be paired alongside minimalist styling, contemporary tailoring or even fashion-forward street style?
African fashion doesn’t have to choose between heritage and modernity, I believe it can have both. And perhaps that tension between the old and the new is exactly what makes it so exciting. It allows us to honour where these fabrics come from while still giving them room to evolve, experiment and become something entirely new.
The Future of African Fashion Is Personal
There is one lesson I keep coming back to when styling statement Nigerian fabrics: the fabric should complement the woman, not overshadow her. It can be tempting to keep adding more jewellery, more colour, more embellishment, more accessories and more drama. But good styling is not about how much you can put together. It is about knowing what belongs and where.
A rich textured fabric may not need much else. A dramatic silhouette might work best with simple accessories, and if the headpiece is making a statement, everything else can be a little more restrained. The goal is not to make someone look like they are simply wearing a beautiful African fabric; rather, it is to make them look beautiful in it. Perhaps that is why I have found myself drawn to Nigerian fabrics more and more in my styling journey. There is so much history in them, but there is also so much possibility.
We can honour the hands and traditions behind these textiles while still creating something completely new, and can wear Aso Oke traditionally for one occasion and turn it into a sharply tailored blazer or an unexpected modern look the next. We can celebrate Akwete for its heritage while giving it a place in the wardrobe of a woman who wants her style to feel completely her own. And perhaps that is where the future of African fashion really lies. Not in trying to recreate the past perfectly, but in taking what has been passed down to us and finding new ways to make it relevant to the woman we are becoming.
So, Aso Oke or Akwete? Maybe the answer isn’t about choosing sides but about choosing the kind of story you want to tell. These Nigerian fabrics already carry stories of heritage, craftsmanship, identity and culture. Our job is simply to decide how we want to continue those stories. As a stylist, that is what I love most. I don’t want the fabric to wear you. I want to help you wear it in a way that feels like you.
